Third and final in the series of
Dark vengeance painting tutorials is the Deathwing sergeant, which should
demonstrate how I paint both deathwing armour, green robes and DA power swords.
The format Is a little different this time in that I hope to demonstrate how to
paint a model to tabletop standard first before going for the higher finished standard
that I normally paint to. There are less step-by-step pictures as a result but
it should be apparent from the descriptions and finished pictures how to get
from A to Z.
Armour:
1. Start
with the model basecoated in white spray
primer. If not, paint a layer of ulthuan grey on before painting several
thinned layers of ceramite white over it. (spray advised)
2. Paint
a layer or two of ushabti bone on
the armoured sections.
3. Slightly
thin some seraphim sepia with water
(or preferably lahmian medium) and wash it over the armour sections ensuring
enough reaches into the recesses. (if you are only going for a tabletop finish
then skip steps 4+5 and move on to the next section)
4. When
the wash is dry, mix some ceramite white
50:50 with ushabti bone and edge
highlight the armour.
5. For
sharp edges and corners consider using a little thinned ceramite white to add extra contrast.
Tabletop details:
1. Paint
the fang and fenrisian grey (50:50)
onto the crest feathers.
2. Paint
two layers of caliban green onto the
chest eagle, right leg bas-relief and robe.
3. Paint
the metal areas with leadbelcher
4. Paint
the gun, jewels, lenses and scabbard mephiston
red
5. Paint
the sword abaddon black
6. Paint
the cords and deathwing symbol khorne
red.
7. Paint
the crux terminates with two layers of eshin
grey
8. Paint
the iron halo motif, sword hilt and other detailing balthasar gold.
9. Paint
the feathers behind the iron halo motif ceramite
white
10. Paint
the dagger and sword handle doombull
brown
11. Paint
the purity seal and scrollwork rakarth
flesh
So there you go, eleven easy
steps to take the model from being base coated with armour to being fully
tabletop ready. This should take about 45 mins not including drying times and
just requires some small brushes and patience. The next section is for higher
standard painting and assumes that you have followed the above steps, thus the
base coat for all the colours should have been done and is not included.
Robes:
1. Paint
50:50 caliban green and warpstone glow onto the robes.
2. Paint
the raised areas warpstone glow
3. Wash
with biel-tan green
Green Deathwing iconography:
1. Wash
with nuln oil
2. When
dry, drybrush with caliban green
50:50 with ushabti bone.
Red cord:
1. Wash
with agrax earthshade
2. Highlight
with a light drybrush of khorne red and screamer pink 50:50
Crest feathers:
1. Carefully
paint the individual feathers with fenrisian
grey, leaving the basecoat in the recesses
2. Paint
the edges of the feathers with ceramite
white.
Note, this is tricky and requires
a steady hand, fine brush and patience but is worth it for the result.
Lenses/jewels:
1. Wash
with agrax earthshade
2. Paint
over with mephiston red.
3.
Add a small notch to the bottom of the
object with squig orange
4. Paint
a dot of light with ceramite white towards
the top of the object.
Note, this is a brief description
– there are many better jewel painting tutorials out there.
Metal areas:
1. Wash
with nuln oil
2. Drybrush
runefang steel
Feathers
1. Wash
with thinned nuln oil
2. Drybrush
over with ceramite white
Scrolls:
1. Wash
with seraphim sepia
2. Edge
highlight with ushabti bone when dry
3. Add
abaddon black linework for text.
Deathwing company symbol:
1. Wash
agrax earthshade
2. Paint
khorne red
3. Highlight
mephiston red
Gold areas:
1. Wash
agrax earthshade
2. Paint
over auric armour gold
Gun casing:
1. Highlight
squig orange
2. Wash
carroburg crimson
Crux:
1. Wash
agrax earthsahde
2. Drybrush
eshin grey
3. Drybrush
dawnstone
Sword:
This is a complex bit of
paintwork involving wet blending. Start with a mix of abaddon black and xereus
purple 1/3 of the way up the sword and gradually increase the purple ratio
until at 2/3 of the way up it is pure purple. Then, start mixing the purple
with ushabti bone until at the very
top you have about 50:50. Then add even more ushabti bone to the mix and
highlight the edges at the top. Use pure xereus purple to highlight the edge of
the shaft. Then just do a few crackling energy arcs from the base using thinned
ceramite white. I will do a tutorial
on grey knight nemesis weapons in a few weeks which makes things clearer.
So that’s it, the end of the
tutorials. I have enjoyed making them and so may do more again in future – I will
take requests so contact me if there’s something you need help with. Hope they
have been useful and enjoyable.
Shopping list:
·
Mephiston red
·
Khorne red
·
Ceramite white
·
Rakarth flesh
·
Abaddon black
·
Caliban green
·
Mournfang brown
·
Leadbelcher
·
Balthasar gold
·
Doombull brown
·
Agrax earthshade
·
Carroburg crimson
·
Seraphim sepia
·
Biel tan green
·
Nuln oil
·
Auric armour gold
·
Runefang steel
·
Squig orange
·
Xereus purple
·
Warpstone glow
·
Fenrisian grey
·
The fang
·
Screamer pink
·
Dawnstone
·
Eshin grey
Sweet guide fella, didn't have a clue where to start. Your guide is clear & concise thanks
ReplyDeleteNice Work! Is it bad if my tabletop finish includes 2 rounds of edge high lighting?
ReplyDeleteThanks chaps, glad to be of help. PG - absolutely nothing wrong with 2 edge highlights for tabletop - in a perfect world that would be the gold standard but time and skill limit this level for most people. If anyone wants to send me pics of their work based off the tutorial I will gladly post it on the blog. Cheers
ReplyDelete