Monday, 16 September 2013

How to paint Salamanders - a tutorial / painting guide

Hi Folks,

As and when I can I will be posting painting guides for all the major chapters. There are several out there already and sure to be more in the near future, but hopefully these will provide an alternative if nothing else. Enjoy.

Paint list:

Abaddon black
Caliban green
Rakarth flesh
Mephiston red
Khorne red
Balthasar gold

Gehenna gold
Auric Armour gold
Doombull brown
Evil sunz scarlet
Wild rider red
Troll slayer orange
Fire dragon bright
Yriel yellow
Moot green
Warpstone glow
Pallid wych flesh
Runefang steel
Eshin grey

Waywatcher green
Carroburg crimson
Seraphim sepia
Nuln oil
Agrax earthshade

Lahmium medium

1 - Green armour

Start with an assembled and undercoated model. Firstly, decide which areas you wish to paint green (my model is a veteran so some armour will be gold) and apply a thinned layer of caliban green. Once this is dry and you are happy with the coverage (always add a second thin coat if not) then go over the area with warpstone glow - same rule for coverage. Once you are happy with this layer, edge highlight (edge of armour using the edge of a detail brush) all the armour plates with a 50:50 mix of warpstone glow and moot green. Once this has dried, add a final highlight of moot green on the most raised surfaces - try to imagine a light shining from directly above and place a line of moot green on the areas it would shine on first. I then add thin lines of caliban green to any armour joints and finish with a wash of waywatcher green to tie all the colours together nicely.

2 - Gold:

Same layering principle applies here as with the green armour. Start with a base of balthasar gold, then add a second layer of gehennas gold. At this point I usually wash with agrax earthshade and once dry I add a final highlight (again on the raised areas) of  auric armour gold.

3 - parchment:

For the parchments I start with rakarth flesh, then wash with seraphim sepia. Once dry, I add a line highlight of pallid wych flesh.

4 - metal areas:

This is a fairly sraightforward step. For all the metal areas, use a basecoat of leadbelcher, wash with nuln oil then do some line highlights with runefang steel when dry.

5 - black areas:

Simply go back over the black areas with abaddon black and line highlight with eshin grey, using dawnstone as a final highlight for the highest or most pointed areas. If you are painting leather, say the pouches, then a blue grey such as the fang can be used instead to highlight. Wash with nuln oil to tie the colours together.

6 - details:

There are several details which will make the model look more finished. Khorne red highlighted with evil sunz scarlet and washed with carroburg crimson is the best way to paint the wax purity seals.The same can be used for the loincloth reverse. Yriel yellow for the eyes with a dot of white plus mephiston red for any other glowing parts.

7 - Salamander details:

So far you should have a model that is near fully painted and could be any chapter of green marines. However, a few last details will transform him into a Salamander:

- Tribal inscriptions - this is just something I do which is to scrawl tribal looking writing in pallid wych flesh to represent the indigenous language of Nocturne. Looks quite nice on the chainsword and right shoulder as seen here.
- Chapter badge - a layer of ardcoat should be applied first and then the decal added using lahmium medium.
- Script - just use a fine detail brush to write lines or letters on using thinned abaddon black.
- flames - now for the best bit. Start by making a flame pattern using mephiston red. Go back over the pattern once dry using the next colour in the sequence, but gradually make the colour you apply smaller and towards the bottom so that the last colour you apply should be little more than a blob at the base of the pattern. I use this order:
Mephiston red
Evil sunz scarlet
Wild rider red
Troll slayer orange
Fire dragon bright
Yriel yellow
- Lava base - again optional, I paint the rock using several layers of doombull brown washed with Agrax earthshade and drybrushed with XV88.

Hope this has been useful. Look out for more painting guides soon. Cheers.

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